Cambodia

I understand why Cambodia - particularly the Angkor temples in Siem Reap - inspired Angelina Jolie into humanitarian work. This is a beautiful country with really warm, welcoming people. I spent 3 days exploring the temples with my guide, Art. The temples date back as early as the 9th century and, while some have been well restored, some are being reclaimed by nature. The trees destroy the abandoned temples but I found the effect beautiful. Also a reminder that everything requires work and maintenance to be well preserved. (If this isn’t justification for my skincare routine, I don’t know what is.)

Day one was the Big Circuit, visiting 6 temples around Siem Reap: Banteay Srei, Eastern Mebon, Pre Rup, Ta Prohm, Neak Poan, and Preah Khan. I was introduced to the mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism that makes up the Cambodian history. I found it very interesting how the two religions became enmeshed, with aspects of Hinduism remaining in their practice of Buddhism. I also learned about the evolution of the architecture from using clay bricks to stone blocks. Elephants and lions feature prominently across the temples, providing strength of transport and protection.

Day two was Angkor day: watching sunrise over Angkor Wat, then exploring Angkor Wat and Angkor Thum. The sunrise is spectacular and something you should see for yourself. The pictures don’t do it justice. The temples themselves are also impressive. The detail in some of the original carvings is exquisite, and the view from the top of Angkor Wat is, as they say, heaven on earth. (Fun fact I learned: the government doesn’t allow Siem Reap buildings taller than Angkor Wat, which is 65 meters.) Naga, or 7-headed snakes, outline the walkways leading to the temples. Statues of gods and demons line the bridges into the cities. Buddha watches all the cardinal points from the walls. Each city and temple an island, surrounded by moats to separate the sacred from the everyday. The stairs are steep, purposely designed so ascending to the temple is an act with focus and purpose. And boy are they steep. I am thankful to the Cambodians for building less treacherous stairs for tourists.

Day three was the remote temple, Beng Meleah, and the oldest temples, Preah Ko and Bakong. Beng Meleah has little restoration, so this is a prime example of the trees reclaiming the land and destroying the temple. We walked the 4 cardinal pathways protected by the Naga, and at the end of one discovered an area had recently been opened to tourists that my guide had never seen before. So we explored the wooded area and found the remains of a temple platform. It was really special to visit an area unseen by most tourists. Then off to Preah Ko and Bakong on the drive back to town. These two temples have foundations of the old-style brick building, but were later refurbished with stone and have Angkor-style additions. The additions again merge Hinduism and Buddhism - a theme throughout the region.

After three days of temple exploration, we spent my last day in Cambodia on the water, visiting the floating village near Tonle Sab lake. The freshwater lake is an important ecological resource, home to hundreds of fish species protected by the government from over-fishing. The people of the floating village have such extreme conditions across the wet and dry seasons. In the wet season, the water is at their doorstep; then, in the dry season, the water is stories below or gone. My guide told me he once led a tour in April and it was so dry they could drive to the lake - very different experience from the boat ride I took!

Finally, a little bit about Cambodian food. I learned about kampot pepper: a regional peppercorn with much acclaim that deserves its reputation. I ate a delicious stir-fried beef dish with a side of kampot pepper sauce, and used the extra rice to get all the peppery sauce. I also tried durian, but in ice cream to dilute its taste (and smell). I liked it and would be curious to try it again! If you visit Siem Reap, I recommend eating at Haven, where they train disadvantaged young adults. It’s a great mission with delicious food!

Stir-fried beef with kampot pepper sauce over rice, with a side of Cambodian coffee

Grilled fish with mango salad over fried potatoes with lime mayo and edible flowers

The Buddha faces on the gate of Angkor Thum

Exploring an area recently opened to tourists near Beng Meleah - my guide had never been before either!

Susan BloombergDecember 30, 2025